DMZ and a little bit of North Korea

On August 2, my 36th birthday, we celebrated by taking a tour of the DMZ. Not many people can say they celebrated part of their birthday in North Korea (even if it was for only a couple minutes). After reading a few reviews on Trip Advisor, we decided to book the USO DMZ tour by Koridoor. The tour was quite educational - especially the Korean movies. We got to watch 1.5 movies on the way to/from the DMZ. Paul and I are still wondering how the movie Gojijeon (The Front Line) ended. We're going to try to find it at some point.

We weren't allowed to freely take photos which kind of stressed me out. We were told when and in what direction we could take them and it usually was only for a few minutes. This kind of limitation makes me nervous and I end up not taking the photos that I would have. Anyway, check out the highlights from the tour. 

We arrived at Camp Bonifas for a briefing by a U.S. soldier

This is the Join Security Area visitor center where we got briefed

We took another bus to the Peace House (which we were not allowed to take photos of).

The Joint Security Area (JSA) where South and North Korean soldiers stand face to face - can you see the NK guy?

Hurry, take a picture before we're not allowed to!

And yes, it is pouring rain. The blue buildings are the South Korean conference rooms.

The microphones are the divider separating North and South Korea in this South Korean conference room.

I'm on the North Korean side!

Our guide told us to stay at least 6 inches away from the soldiers

I got a little closer here but other folks were almost touching them!

All South Korean soldiers have to stand like this in 2 hour shifts - even the ones outside rain or shine

There used to be actual flags of the countries who provide support to South Korea but our guide told us that because the North Koreans would constantly disrespect the flags, they made it into a poster.

We weren't sure how people would react to Paul punching this statue...

After the tour of the Joint Security Area, we headed to the Dorasan train station. This is as north as the train will go in South Korea. It used to go into North Korea but since March of 2013, service stopped since North Korea doesn't acknowledge the armistice anymore. 

Paul is looking south for a train

The tour guide said  I could go on the tracks but we were quickly called back up

Only 205km to Pyeongyang

Empty train station - just tourists

We then headed to the Dora Observatory overlooking the DMZ and is actually the closest to the North

On a clear day, you're supposed to be able to see the North Korean propaganda village

But, like I said before, we usually don't get good weather. I was only allowed to take pics behind the yellow line.

I spy the observation deck where the South Koreans are watching the North Koreans

We then headed to the third infiltration tunnel - one of four tunnels the South Koreans found that the North dug. This was the third tunnel found (in October 1978 based on info from a defector). The North said they were mining for coal...yeah, sure. 

We visited the museum and also were able to walk through the tunnel but pictures weren't allowed within the tunnel. Here are some in the museum. Paul really wanted to punch some of these soldiers. See how anxious he is?

 After a long day, we headed back to Seoul to have a celebratory birthday dinner.

We had dinner at an Italian restaurant at The Plaza Hotel and put on our fanciest clothes; yes, jeans.

Last shot of the night - cool reflections in a puddle outside our hotel

Seoul

On July 31, we headed to Seoul.

On the road again...

Train ride from Busan to Seoul going as fast as 300km/hr (186miles/hr)

We made it! The bag is heavy.

Seoul Station - looking for the taxi stand

If you've been reading our blog, you'll know by now that the first day we arrive anywhere we don't really do much. We explored our neighborhood the next day.

Looking towards City Hall

The main thing we saw on this day was the Sungnyemun Gate, which is "National Treasure No.1." It is the south gate of Seoul. It was originally built in 1398 and has been repaired many times including after the Korean War when it was badly damaged. From 1961-1963, the gate was taken completely apart, repaired and fully reassembled. It was most recently damaged in 2008 by an arsonist and repairs were recently completed.

Looks pretty new

Lots of people visiting it

This is the art on the ceiling of the gate

Paul is excited to pose for a photo in the heat

Interesting juxtaposition (as pointed out by Sascha on the photo I posted on Instagram)

Walking through the crowds in the alley ways where scooters whizz by...do you see it? Or are you distracted by the couple wearing matching shirts? More on that later...

That was pretty much the extent of our first full day. We had to get up early the next morning for our tour of the DMZ (demilitarized zone). 

Gyeongju and Ulsan

On July 29 we took the KTX (Korean Train Express) towards Gyeongju. When we looked into the best way to get to Gyeongju to visit the Bulguksa Temple, most of our research said a direct bus. But, since we bought a 3-day KTX rail pass, I wanted to make sure we put it to use. Plus, the KTX is the fastest train in Korea. So even though it took 30 minutes by train, we also had to take a bus for about 40 minutes from the train station to the temple (for those who are wondering and possibly using this blog to plan your travels, it is bus #700 and it's the last stop).

We were welcomed to Gyeongju by these friendly animals

Upon arriving, there is also a tourist information booth but we got suckered into eating lunch at a local place.

You can't tell but it was unbelievably hot walking to the Bulguksa Temple

Bulguksa Temple was built in 528 during the Silla Dynasty.

Paul is excited to see another temple

Can you see the sweat running down my face and my fogged up glasses?

Paul really liked the shirt this guy was wearing...MEOW

Yes, more door shots!

Dabotap is the Many Treasure Pagoda

Interesting juxtaposition

Pretty colors and lots of detail

Taking pictures and not reading the signs = I don't know what this is

Paul was getting out of my shot of this corridor

Door knocker - GRRROWL!

Pretty

Waiting for the bus

On our way back to the train station - pretty rice fields

This was a field of flowers - they looked amazing against the backdrop of these mountains

On July 30 we took the KTX again to Ulsan where we were promised great beaches (Ilsan Beach) and a magical pine forest (Daewangam Park). This train took 20 minutes but we also had to take a bus - this time 1 hour - to the beach and park. And with our luck, it was overcast again (see, it is becoming a real trend here), and we really didn't see much of the beach but the fog did make the forest look more magical than I think it otherwise would have.

Ilsan Beach on a foggy and overcast day

Daewangam Park is just up those stairs - there are a lot more than you see there

Pretty steep

But we made it and it's magical! Come aboard!

The fog made it look really pretty

I really loved the ivy growing on these pine trees

Magical forest

We didn't walk all the way down

The rocks along the water are supposed to be really pretty on a clear day

Asian Paul

This lighthouse, Ulgi Light, was used for 80 years

Another shot of the rocks along the water

It just got foggier when we made our out of the park

We tried to go to another beach but got lost - Ulsan was not for us

So, we took the KTX back to Busan

Paul fell asleep on the ride back